Paris in four rooms a day
4 nights · January to March · Slow pace · Mid range
Four mornings of museums and four afternoons of one more, with nothing else booked.
Day 1
Water lilies first
Orangerie Museum · Morning · Museum
Opening time, oval rooms, and a bench. Everything else today is a bonus.
Museum of Orsay · Afternoon · Museum
Fifth floor first. Then the sculpture nave on the way out, when the light has gone low.
Rodin Museum · Afternoon · Museum
A garden ticket alone is cheap, and in winter the garden is nearly empty.
Day 2
The Louvre, one wing only
Louvre Pyramid · Morning · Sight
Stand in the courtyard for five minutes before you go under. The pyramid is a doorway, not a monument.
Louvre Museum · Morning · Museum
Pick one wing and stay in it. I take Richelieu and the French sculpture courts, and I never reach the Mona Lisa.
The Cluny Museum · Afternoon · Museum
Roman baths, medieval rooms, and the unicorn tapestries. Thirty minutes walk from the Louvre and a century away.
Day 3
Marais, three courtyards
Musée national Picasso-Paris · Morning · Museum
A seventeenth century mansion with a modern stair cut through it. Follow the chronology, it is worth it here.
Carnavalet Museum · Afternoon · Museum
Shop signs, ballroom panels, whole rooms lifted from lost houses. Free, and easy to dip into.
Bourse de Commerce · Afternoon · Museum
Walk the gap between the concrete drum and the old dome twice, once each way.
Day 4
West, and quieter
Musée Marmottan Monet · Morning · Museum
The basement room of late Monet is the reason to come out here. Almost nobody is in it.
Quai Branly Museum · Afternoon · Museum
Dark, winding and deliberately disorienting. Read the labels, they have been rewritten in the last few years.
Palace of Tokyo · Evening · Museum
Open until midnight most days, which makes it the only museum I visit after dinner. Raw concrete and whatever is current.
- Seen in Time Out Paris. Notes that several large Paris museums, including the Louvre and the Orsay, are free on the first Sunday of the month