Kyoto, four days of hands
4 nights · Late October to early December · Slow pace · Mid range
Craft museums in the morning, covered streets in the afternoon, and one day out west.
Day 1
Higashiyama, uphill
清水三年坂美術館 · Morning · Museum
Start here so that the souvenir shops further up make sense. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Three-year Slope · Midday · Walk
Stone steps and old shopfronts. Slippery in rain, and the name is a warning about falling.
Two-year Slope · Midday · Walk
The quieter of the two slopes. Look above the shop awnings at the timber.
Kiyomizu-dera · Afternoon · Sight
Go for the joinery under the veranda, which was rebuilt without nails. Late afternoon is calmer than morning.
Day 2
Okazaki, the museum quarter
京都伝統工芸館 · Morning · Museum
Student and artisan work side by side, with demonstrations some days. Small and often empty.
The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto · Afternoon · Museum
Upstairs for the ceramics and textiles in the collection gallery. Skip the special show if the queue is long.
Philosopher's Walk · Afternoon · Walk
Two kilometres along a canal. Do it slowly, in the direction the water runs.
Day 3
Downtown and the covered streets
Nishiki Market · Morning · Market
Go at nine, before the tour groups. Look at the knife shops and the pickle barrels rather than the snacks.
Teramachi Street · Midday · Walk
Paper, brushes, incense and secondhand books. This is where I usually find the one thing I carry home.
Ryukoku Museum · Afternoon · Museum
Buddhist art, well lit and calmly explained in English. An hour, opposite the Nishi Honganji gate.
Toji Treasure Museum · Afternoon · Museum
The treasure hall opens only in spring and autumn, so check the dates before you build the day on it.
Day 4
Arashiyama, and one teaching collection
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove · Morning · Walk
Be there by eight or do not bother. It is a short path and it is worth the early alarm.
Togetsu Bridge · Midday · Sight
Cross, then walk the south bank away from the shops until the noise stops.
京都工芸繊維大学美術工芸資料館 · Afternoon · Museum
A university collection of posters, textiles and design archives. Opening hours are academic, so check the week.
- Seen in The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto. Museum opening information used to place the Okazaki day